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T. H. Herbers, S. Elgar, N. A. Sarap and R. T. Guza, “Nonlinear Dispersion of Surface Gravity Waves in Shallow Water,” Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 32. No. 4, 2002, pp. 182-1193.
doi:10.1175/1520-0485(2002)032<1181:NDOSGW>2.0.CO;2
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