TITLE:
The Effect of a Novel Complex, Composed of Ceramide, Energizing Peptide and Camu Camu Extract, on Epidermal Barrier Function and Dermal Antiaging Properties in Ex Vivo Human Skin Small Live Cohort
AUTHORS:
Landau Marina, Landau-Blum Shir, Samuel Kassirer, Audrey Le Mestr, Armelle Perrin, Julien Verdon, Laurine Bergeron, Corinne Morel, Isabelle Imbert
KEYWORDS:
SUPCERATTM Complex, Epidermal Skin Barrier, Moisturization, Antiaging, Ceramide, Camu Camu Extract
JOURNAL NAME:
Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications,
Vol.14 No.1,
February
22,
2024
ABSTRACT: The
skin’s primary function is to protect the body against a spectrum of
environmental stressors, including mechanical insults, microorganisms,
chemicals, and allergens. Located in the outermost layers, the primary
structures and components responsible for the skin’s barrier function are
susceptible to environmental variables, dermatological conditions, and the
aging process. The ensuing alterations to structure, composition, and
organizational attributes of the epidermal barrier can impact its integrity and
functionality. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of a novel
complex composed of a ceramide, energizing peptide, and Camu Camu extract
(SUPCERATTM complex) on specific markers of epidermal barrier
integrity, as well as epidermal and dermal function. All the experiments were
conducted on fresh human abdominal skin explants. Intradermal production of
hyaluronic acid, epidermal claudin-1, and ceramide synthase 3 expressions, as
well as epidermal lipids content were assessed using specific fluorescent
stainings on ex vivo skin after the
application of the complex or placebo. Additionally, dermal elastase and
collagenase activities were assessed using in
tubo enzymatic assays. Lastly, the
effect of a cosmetic cream containing SUPCERATTM complex was assessed using subjective Global Aesthetic
Improvement Scale (GAIS) in a small
cohort of patients after 60 days of use. The application of the SUPCERATTM complex on ex vivo skin led to
significant increase in dermal hyaluronic acid content and epidermal activity
of claudin-1, ceramide synthase 3 and epidermal ceramide content. Furthermore, in tubo enzymatic assays demonstrated
inhibition of both dermal elastase and collagenase activities. In addition, the
patient-reported results indicated significant improvements in skin quality and
appearance.