TITLE:
Particle Motion in Surface Gravity Waves
AUTHORS:
Kern E. Kenyon
KEYWORDS:
Surface Gravity Waves, Orbital Particle Motion
JOURNAL NAME:
Natural Science,
Vol.13 No.2,
February
22,
2021
ABSTRACT: Fluid
particles in translating surface gravity waves have an orbital motion which
decreases in size with increasing mean depth. These wave characteristics came
from observations and were not forecast theoretically. The classical potential
flow model is incapable of explaining the particle movement due to the
irrotational assumption and to a flaw in carrying out the method. When a wave
passes by an observer from left to right, the particles move clockwise under a
crest and a trough. This correct conclusion is consistent with what the
incorrect standard theory implies but should not be considered to have been
derived from it.