TITLE:
Apple of Sodom (Calatropis procera) Callus Extract, a Novel Skincare Active and Its Biological Activity in Skin Models When Combined with Dead Sea Water
AUTHORS:
Meital Portugal-Cohen, Eliran Ish-Shalom, Ruben Mallon, Patricia Corral, Franck Michoux, Ze’evi Ma’or
KEYWORDS:
C. procera Callus Extract, Alternative Skin Models, Inflammation, Irritation, Aging, Dead Sea Water
JOURNAL NAME:
Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications,
Vol.8 No.2,
June
29,
2018
ABSTRACT: Background: Calotropis procera (C. procera), is an
authentic plant naturally grown in the flora of Dead Sea region. Despite its
toxicity, C. procera presents healing properties. However, it has not
been implemented yet in cosmetics as an active ingredient. Objective: The
biological effects of C. procera callus extract on skin were elucidated solely and in combination with
Dead Sea water (DSW). Methods: The capability of C. procera extract to protect against skin inflammation and
irritation was tested on ex vivo human skin organ culture by LPS and SDS
addition respectively. Viability and cytokine secretion were evaluated. The
combination of C. procera extract with Dead Sea water was tested on full
thickness skin equivalents. Gene expression and relevant biochemical markers
for glycolysis, hypoxia and extracellular matrix balance were tested. Results: C. procera extract exhibits a protective biological activity
against skin irritation and inflammation at the biochemical level. Furthermore,
a combination of C. procera extract and DSW demonstrates a potential
contribution for skin wellbeing via enhance energy production, resistance to
hypoxia and extracellular matrix balance. Conclusions: Topical
application of C. procera callus extract might support skin balance and
wellbeing at the molecular level. Hence, it is recommended for new cosmetic
formulae as standalone or in combination with Dead Sea water, in the effort to
achieve anti-aging bio-activity that is working beyond skin aging symptoms,
especially via skin calming effects and skin energy enhancement.